The Art of the Brew: Exploring Beer’s Aromas, Flavors, and Sustainability

I n this third and final interview installment, cultural historian and sensory artist Gayil Nalls continues her conversation with world-renowned brewmaster Garrett Oliver. The interview took place on August 6, 2024, at Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, New York.

Gayil Nalls:  How do you use aromatic plants or spices to indicate a beer’s vibrancy and freshness?

Garret Oliver: That’s an interesting thought. When I was writing Brewmaster’s Table, I discussed how aromas can be perceived as “bright” or “dark.” These associations often come from our physical world. For example, something brown, like mahogany, suggests it’s been subjected to heat, giving it earthy or caramelized flavors. Mushrooms are often thought of as earthy and dark, while caramel shares those characteristics. On the other hand, citrus flavors are generally considered “bright,” uplifting, and fresh.

These perceptions are shaped by personal experiences and cultural backgrounds. Some ingredients can embody both characteristics simultaneously. For example, makrut lime leaves (also known as kaffir lime leaves), which are significant in Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, possess both earthy and bright notes. Recently, I’ve become familiar with flavors like palm sugar, which has a unique earthy quality. My first taste of palm sugar was at Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok in Portland, and it opened up a more earthy side of Thai cuisine for me.

Similarly, pandan leaves and other regional ingredients offer a depth of flavor that contrasts with more familiar bright notes, providing a full narrative behind the product.

”If major brewers started using even a small percentage of fonio, it could improve the economies of thousands, if not millions, of smallholder farmers.”

What about phantom smells or olfactory illusions with beers? Could you explain what these hallucinations are and how they are shaped by prior experiences and expectations?

There are two types of what could be called “phantom smells.” The first involves neurological issues where smells are perceived incorrectly. For example, many people who had COVID-19 reported that, for a while, everything smelled like soap, a kind of sensory illusion.

The second type involves genetic differences in how we perceive certain smells. Cilantro is a classic example: some people love it, while others detect a soapy flavor. When talking about phantom aromas, are you referring to something like this or to a more subtle background scent that’s hard to identify? For instance, I might add a hint of cinnamon, nutmeg, or another spice to a dish without explicitly stating it. People might not be able to pinpoint the scent, but it could trigger a feeling or association. For example, if oregano is added subtly to a beer, most people wouldn’t identify it directly, but it might remind them of pizza, even if they can’t place why.

Does plant conservation and sustainable harvesting enter the conversation in beer making?

Absolutely. Plant conservation is crucial in the beer industry. Currently, I’m working with fonio, a West and Central African grain that has been cultivated in the Sahel for around 5,000 years. It’s resilient to climate change and doesn’t require harmful inputs like fertilizers or pesticides.

I met Chef Pierre Chiam from Senegal, who is reintroducing fonio into modern food systems. Given that beer has its origins in Africa, I thought fonio might have been used to brew beer, so I experimented with it—and it produced fantastic flavors. Fonio can thrive in very dry climates and requires minimal rainfall, making it an environmentally sustainable crop.

Colonialism, however, disrupted its use, replacing native crops like fonio with non-native ones like corn, wheat, and rice. These crops demanded irrigation systems, chemicals, and machinery, often provided by colonial powers, which led to environmental degradation. Reintroducing fonio into brewing is part of a larger effort to promote biodiversity and sustainability. If major brewers started using even a small percentage of fonio, it could improve the economies of thousands, if not millions, of smallholder farmers.

What is your go-to beer and why?

 I don’t have a single go-to beer, but on a day-to-day basis, a truly well-made Pilsner is generally one of my favorites. People might think a Pilsner is simple, but when it’s done well, it’s anything but bland.

If I were on an island for a month, I’d probably choose a Belgian Saison, especially Saison Dupont. It’s a truly beautiful beer and has the biggest write-up of any single beer in Brewmaster’s Table. That said, I also have a deep love for British cask-conditioned beers, which evoke strong sensory memories for me.

The beauty of beer is its variety—it’s like music. Some days, you might be in the mood for punk rock, other days classical or jazz. I wrote Brewmaster’s Table because beer, like music, offers so much to explore. If you only know the regular beers from the supermarket, discovering something new is like being introduced to Coltrane for the first time or going to your first baseball game. All you have to do is step through that door to a richer experience. If I can help people find that door, I consider it a great achievement.

The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food

Gayil Nalls, Ph.D., is the creator of World Sensorium and founder of the World Sensorium/Conservancy. She explores how plants and humans shape each other’s story. 

Top Photograph by Gayil Nalls